My boots go through hell. I work around alkaline chemicals, and everything is steel and concrete.
In the winter, it's frozen mud, abrasive dust, and cold.
In the summer, it's water, abrasive dust, and heat.
Every so often, I spend eight hours in 3" of water. That's always fun.
I've been looking for better boots for the five years that I've been working at the plant. I even emailed Danner, and explained what I do with a pair of boots.
They emailed me back, and admitted that nothing in their lineup would stand up to what I put them through.
Every year, the company gives us $150.00 to spend on boots from Lehigh. If we want something more expensive, we have to make up for the difference.
I've had good luck with Timberlands, so this year, I didn't see the need to fix what ain't broken.
Timberland Pro Rip Saw:
Ten inches of composite toe goodness:
Yeah, the camera cut the photo. They're about ten inches tall.
I like the way these panels are stitched. This is where my boots always split, and hopefully the extra reinforcement will help.
Two inch heels! Yikes.
I like the extra tread depth of loggers, but these are hard to walk in.
It's going to be a while before I'm ready to get them filthy: they have to be oiled and waxed, and I want to seal the stitching.
I'll update this thread with pictures as the year goes by. We'll see how long they last.
Last Edit: Jan 24, 2014 9:11:13 GMT -8 by Shorttime
I wasn't looking really hard for a thermos mug. It's one of those things where, if I look, I won't find.
Sure enough, I stumbled on this, and figured that for ten dollars, it's worth a try. I like Stanley thermoses, because I like old-school shit.
Obligatory publicity shot:
Filled with water:
The paper towel stays dry!
...The second time, anyway. The first time, I didn't have the lid cranked all the way down.
It has a screw-top lid, with a rubber seal around the bottom. When you unscrew the lid partway, there is enough space for liquid to bypass the seal, run through the threads, and into your mouth. Simple, low-maintenance.
I'm not sure about being able to open and close that lid while driving, but I figure it's a compromise between a good seal and ease of use. I can leave the lid partly open while I'm driving.
They have a pushbutton one, too, which seems like it would get gummed up if not rinsed promptly.
I'll let you guys know how it holds up when I drop it!
Freehand Kydex bending is an art, so pay very careful attention to your folds.
The idea itself is sound. I think a lot of questions will be answered by your execution of it.
From what I've observed, there is a very narrow "sweet spot" with gear holsters. On the one side, they are too small to be useful, and on the other side, they are too bulky. By keeping it intended for only two items, you should be able to avoid some of the "too big" issues.
Are you going to put this thing in your pocket, or is it going to attach to something else?
i think im finished working on ym zt801. i love the shit out of this knife now. i dont even really want the alan davis i have on order any more
hard to take pics of how much nicer the knife looks. night and day from new.
the stuff i had already done before.....polish all screws/pivot
polished the peaks of the machining grooves, added a sick shine and class to the look of the knife
replaced the simple looking flat black standoffs with shiney titanium ones, plus replace the lame black lowride clip with a custom Ti one from a guy on usn
spent about 2 hours hand buffing the blade with flitz and a microfiber cloth. significantly shined up the stonewash. SO much better than stock flat lame ZT stonewash. has a really nice shine to it, and it significantly lightened up all the zt markings
cant even really see how much different it looks in this pic....but its huge difference when its in your hand. this knife is keeper.