Then and Now - The Benefits of LED Flashlights
Aug 5, 2015 13:47:23 GMT -8
CoRnhOlio, HunterHype, and 2 more like this
Post by david57strat on Aug 5, 2015 13:47:23 GMT -8
Now that I'm in comparative nostalgic mode, I thought I'd start a thread comparing one example of a flashlight using yesterday's technology, with one of today's. Note that, in this instance I've chosen to use an extremely warm-tinted drop-in, to closely approximate the color temperature of an incandescent bulb. THE LED has many of the advantages of the incandescent, with almost none of the weaknesses. I've used this LED tint for two reasons. 1) Some people can't stand cool white color temperatures that most LED flashlights produce, and they swear by their old incandescent lights, believing that they have no choice, other than their old tried-and-true incandescent or some funky blueish, greenish, or purpleish LED lights. A few years ago, that may have been true, but no more. They just will not part with them, mainly for this reason. 2) I wanted to show that it is entirely possible to get a huge range of tints (from super warm, to super cool) out of your P60 light, depending on which LED you choose. Want something warm, neutral.cool...something in between? It's out there. You just have to choose the right one for the application, and you're home free 
On the left - an old Garrity plastic flashlight, with a rubberized grip, running on two alkaline D cells, "upgraded" (
) with an incandescent bulb I stole out of the tailcap (it was the backup bulb) of my old 2D Maglite. It had never been used, until I installed in this old Garrity). Believe it or not, that Maglite bulb was way better than the stock bulb that had been installed in the Garrity, which died. The light weighed in at 20 ounces, with 2 D batteries, installed.
On the right - a shortened version of one of my Solarforce L2M hosts, with a few upgrades (L2T head with B6 stainless bezel, recessed tail cap switch, with an International Outdoors XP-L U5 7A3 3-mode drop-in, running on a single 16340 battery. This light weighed in at about 4 ounces, with the 16340 battery, installed. This is a fully modular host/light. You can use it in its shortened version, with one CR123 or 16340 battery, or use the extender (which is how I usually use it), and use a single 18650 battery in it (as long as the drop-in supports the voltage). Fortunately, this one does.
The old Garrity has no waterproofing, of any kind on the threads (no o-rings, no nothing). All the threads are plastic. I'd be willing to bet that if that light were dropped on its head, the plastic lens would crack, and the bulb would most certainly break, rendering the light completely useless. The light on the right is completely o-ring sealed, is fully waterproof to IP-X8 standards (2 meters, 30 minutes), and the glass lens will allow the highest lumen transfer out of the light, while the stainless bezel protects it from cracking, in the event of a drop. I'm not saying it's shatter-proof - but it's highly resistant.
Every part on this light can be replaced, easily and inexpensively, if need be.
The old Garrity is a direct drive light. It will start dimming, within just minutes after you turn it on. The electronics on the Solarforce's are regulated to maintain constant output (within a certain voltage range), until the voltage drops to a certain level, at which point, it will run, on direct drive, just like the incandescent - and fade slowly, until it reaches its lower voltage threshold (I think it's 2.7 volts); but you get used to your lights and what they can do, and a battery change usually happens long before you reach anywhere close to that point.
In spite of the huge reflector, the Garrity was only able to produce this alien-like, super-narrow beam (it's all spot...no spill, whatsoever. I had to actually light up the Garrity with the Solarforce, set to its lowest level, so you could even see the Garrity, in the picture. Had it not been for that, all you would see is that little tiny spot on the wall. Terrible quality light. Pretty much useless (not much better than an actual lit candle). Sad.
Camera settings here, are ISO 80, 1/2 second exposure, at F5.6, daylight white balance, and neutral colors
Same exact settings. The International Outdoors drop-in has very large hot spot, and an equally generous spill beam - particularly well-suited for distance spotting, but offering up nice peripheral vision, as well - a great combination (no tunnel vision) - especially outdoors.
Its tint looks so much like an incandescent, a lot of people confuse it for one, when they see it. This beam has a great combination of spot and spill, so you kind of get the best of both worlds. I usually choose a smooth reflector (over an orange peel), when I purchase drop-ins, for better throw, even though the beam may not look as pretty.
The distance from the doorway to the desk was probably not even 12 feet away.
Camera settings - ISO 80, F3.5, 1 second exposure, same white balance and color settings as before
..and here, with the Solarforce light.
Try this with your old Maglite. It ain't gonna happen :|
Alkaline (or lithium disposables/primaries) vs. Lithium Ion Technology
Once you fully deplete an alkaline (or any other primary) battery, you're done. Game over. You have to replace the battery. Once you break a bulb, it has to be replaced. Lithium ion batteries can be re-charged hundreds of times, and pay for themselves, during heavy usage. They have no memory effect, like old NiCads (they can be just topped off, periodically, and still maintain a full duty cycle, in between charges. LEDs last tens of thousands of hours, are more efficient, and very rarely fail, and as is the case with a P60 host, you can choose any tint you want. I happened to choose a very warm tint, here, but have plenty of varying tints, all the way to retina-searing super bright white :P
Are you beginning to realize the amazing flexibility of the P60 host? That's why I'm so hooked on these things.
This is all with a little tiny light measuring in at about four inches long. Imagine the output of a larger, heavier light, with today's technology.
I didn't use a key chain (or other super compact) light, because the P60 lights are the only ones I have, with a very wide range of tints from which to choose, and that I actually have, at my disposal.
I hope this sheds some light (no pun intended) on some of the basic differences between the older incandescent lights, and LED lights of today. It's a good time to be a flashaholic. Choices are nearly limitless, limited only by your imagination and your pocketbook.
Thanks for viewing my post. As always, your comments and/or questions are always most welcome :-)
On the left - an old Garrity plastic flashlight, with a rubberized grip, running on two alkaline D cells, "upgraded" (
) with an incandescent bulb I stole out of the tailcap (it was the backup bulb) of my old 2D Maglite. It had never been used, until I installed in this old Garrity). Believe it or not, that Maglite bulb was way better than the stock bulb that had been installed in the Garrity, which died. The light weighed in at 20 ounces, with 2 D batteries, installed.On the right - a shortened version of one of my Solarforce L2M hosts, with a few upgrades (L2T head with B6 stainless bezel, recessed tail cap switch, with an International Outdoors XP-L U5 7A3 3-mode drop-in, running on a single 16340 battery. This light weighed in at about 4 ounces, with the 16340 battery, installed. This is a fully modular host/light. You can use it in its shortened version, with one CR123 or 16340 battery, or use the extender (which is how I usually use it), and use a single 18650 battery in it (as long as the drop-in supports the voltage). Fortunately, this one does.
The old Garrity has no waterproofing, of any kind on the threads (no o-rings, no nothing). All the threads are plastic. I'd be willing to bet that if that light were dropped on its head, the plastic lens would crack, and the bulb would most certainly break, rendering the light completely useless. The light on the right is completely o-ring sealed, is fully waterproof to IP-X8 standards (2 meters, 30 minutes), and the glass lens will allow the highest lumen transfer out of the light, while the stainless bezel protects it from cracking, in the event of a drop. I'm not saying it's shatter-proof - but it's highly resistant.
Every part on this light can be replaced, easily and inexpensively, if need be.
The old Garrity is a direct drive light. It will start dimming, within just minutes after you turn it on. The electronics on the Solarforce's are regulated to maintain constant output (within a certain voltage range), until the voltage drops to a certain level, at which point, it will run, on direct drive, just like the incandescent - and fade slowly, until it reaches its lower voltage threshold (I think it's 2.7 volts); but you get used to your lights and what they can do, and a battery change usually happens long before you reach anywhere close to that point.
In spite of the huge reflector, the Garrity was only able to produce this alien-like, super-narrow beam (it's all spot...no spill, whatsoever. I had to actually light up the Garrity with the Solarforce, set to its lowest level, so you could even see the Garrity, in the picture
. Had it not been for that, all you would see is that little tiny spot on the wall. Terrible quality light. Pretty much useless (not much better than an actual lit candle). Sad.Camera settings here, are ISO 80, 1/2 second exposure, at F5.6, daylight white balance, and neutral colors
Same exact settings. The International Outdoors drop-in has very large hot spot, and an equally generous spill beam - particularly well-suited for distance spotting, but offering up nice peripheral vision, as well - a great combination (no tunnel vision) - especially outdoors.
Its tint looks so much like an incandescent, a lot of people confuse it for one, when they see it. This beam has a great combination of spot and spill, so you kind of get the best of both worlds. I usually choose a smooth reflector (over an orange peel), when I purchase drop-ins, for better throw, even though the beam may not look as pretty.
The distance from the doorway to the desk was probably not even 12 feet away.
Camera settings - ISO 80, F3.5, 1 second exposure, same white balance and color settings as before
..and here, with the Solarforce light.
Try this with your old Maglite. It ain't gonna happen :|
Alkaline (or lithium disposables/primaries) vs. Lithium Ion Technology
Once you fully deplete an alkaline (or any other primary) battery, you're done. Game over. You have to replace the battery. Once you break a bulb, it has to be replaced. Lithium ion batteries can be re-charged hundreds of times, and pay for themselves, during heavy usage. They have no memory effect, like old NiCads (they can be just topped off, periodically, and still maintain a full duty cycle, in between charges. LEDs last tens of thousands of hours, are more efficient, and very rarely fail, and as is the case with a P60 host, you can choose any tint you want. I happened to choose a very warm tint, here, but have plenty of varying tints, all the way to retina-searing super bright white
:PAre you beginning to realize the amazing flexibility of the P60 host? That's why I'm so hooked on these things.
This is all with a little tiny light measuring in at about four inches long. Imagine the output of a larger, heavier light, with today's technology.
I didn't use a key chain (or other super compact) light, because the P60 lights are the only ones I have, with a very wide range of tints from which to choose, and that I actually have, at my disposal.
I hope this sheds some light (no pun intended) on some of the basic differences between the older incandescent lights, and LED lights of today. It's a good time to be a flashaholic. Choices are nearly limitless, limited only by your imagination and your pocketbook.
Thanks for viewing my post. As always, your comments and/or questions are always most welcome :-)
