Post by worldwood on Sept 14, 2014 19:52:03 GMT -8
I may or may not use a center line scribe tool.... I have a buddy with one and he no longer uses it, and he will let me use his until get my own, they are not that expensive.. But im broke now LMAO.
I plan on waiting to get the grinder before doing the bevels.
But i was told i would learn more starting off by just taking the same amount of passes on each side, same angle, and going slow. I have a bubble jig from fred rowe on the way that helps you stay at the same exact angle. I know several makers that never use a scribe or mark the center line. Feel and proper technique can get the job done.
Post by Shorttime on Sept 14, 2014 19:58:31 GMT -8
If I'm doing double bevels, I start with a grinder, just to hog off a lot of the steel.
I have a center scribe, and I transfer a paper pattern to steel for the bevels.
I stop somewhere between %50 and %75 of the way through bevel grinding, and switch to files. It's achingly slow, and it's an excellent way to keep from fucking up a piece of steel that is now almost halfway to becoming a knife, so I really don't want to have to start over because I got cocky with my grinder.
Now, I have a 1.5 HP stone wheel grinder, so it's pretty much only good for brute work. If you feel like having a go with your 150 belts, you may be able to get a lot closer to finished before turning off the power tools.
Being able to grind without any centerline or bevel markings definitely gets you into the upper levels of knifemaking badassery.
If that is a skill you want to develop, I would start with neck knives and kiridashis (stuff with blade lengths of 2.5" or less), so that you have a good chance of ending up with a saleable piece at the end.
I will have to pick up a scribe, or use a drill bit for now to scribe the center line. Once i develop some skill though i would definitely want to try without it. Same thing with the bubble jig... I fully plan on using it at first until i get some muscle memory and skill developed but then i will be trying without it. I like the idea of knowing i could do it without the stuff if i needed to. But ill use the stuff to help me learn for a while.
Internet sucked last night. Kept cutting off on me.
But it did give me some time to play around with a new design.
After drawing it all up it reminded me of 100 different knives.... So i decided to call it the "Average Woody" LMAO :D.... Soon there will be a "Woody Pecker", an "Average Woody" A "Crooked Woody" with a slanted handle, And a "Big Wood" :eek: Ya see where im going with this?? HAHA
Sorry for the crappy picture. Didnt feel like going down stairs and turning everything on quite yet.
Its a hair under 10" with a generous amount of handle.
The sharpening notch choil area will probably be difficult to get cleanly profiled out.... But i like it like that, so ill attempt it.
Post by Shorttime on Sept 16, 2014 16:17:20 GMT -8
Woody, I may have the solution to your choil.
You can get a special blade for a hand hacksaw. Instead of the conventional blade that you are used to, it's a thick wire which has had silicon carbide bonded to it. IIRC, the total kerf is about 3/16 wide, but it looks like your choil may be 1/4" anyway.
If you want the choil to be flat on the bottom, get yourself a flat file, and you'll be able to dress the bottom of that cut.
If you're feeling a little timid about it, then this would be a great place to use the drill-press technique you used on the other one. That way, you can find the exact center of your choil, punch the center as many times as you need to, drill, and the clean out the excess.
That may even be the faster way of doing the choil.
Post by worldwood on Sept 16, 2014 17:43:31 GMT -8
Thanks for the tips man!!
I have a few flat files that may work!!
I was thinking of using the drill then getting a few chainsaw files to get it done so i can radius the corners and keep it clean looking. It will not be squared off on top to prevent stress risers. I will curve the top but keep the straight lines coming down. Like an upside down U.
But I also just got an email and it looks like the new grinder should be here tomorrow!! So ill still be using hand tools to get that choil done but ill be able to knock out the majority of the profile much quicker.
Post by worldwood on Sept 18, 2014 11:05:53 GMT -8
I removed the plastic cover and cut the work table on the right side to make it easy to change the belts. Im still using the lower belt guard, but i just have to loosen it a bit and the belts fit through. Much easier than taking everything apart each time i want to change belts.
Post by worldwood on Sept 18, 2014 16:00:33 GMT -8
So... Its definitely a learning experience... I didnt do so great.... I need to figure out how to do the plunge lines better and more evenly, and practice applying the same amount of pressure the entire time. I manged to grind the tip too thin and lost the very tip, not much of it, but enough to teach me to be careful how thin im going. And i didnt realize i was using different amounts of pressure but i guess i must have been.
The spine tapers from .111 down to around .020 at whats left of the tip
The edge starts off at .022 then goes up around .050 after about an inch then it drops all the way down to .015 at whats left of the tip
Tips welcomed an appreciated on how to improve my mistakes.
Post by willydigger. FB inFamous on Sept 18, 2014 16:35:28 GMT -8
I have no idea, but it's fun watching you learn. I fucked up all my grinds. Practice. Or cheat and get a jig.
That Smurfing Forum is no bueno and HI SPONGBOB. - Kilroy Psychosis is refreshing like a cool glass o' lemonade. - T. YOU HAVE MY AXE, WILLARD DIGGERD OF WESTEROS, FIRST SON OF THE FROG KING - Q Where is the satisfaction in watching other people accomplish things? - Short Make woopy, make waffles make like the wind. - Roy