1. Does it matter to you what kind of screws are used? Torque screw, Philip, flat head, etc. For instance some people prefer the ordinary flat or Philip because they don't require special tools.
2. Assuming there's no restrictions, what would be your ideal blade length of an edc pocket folding knife? 3 inches? 4?
3. What blade material do you think is the perfect balance between corrosion resistance and edge holding?
4. Do you have a preferred deployment type? And why. Flipper, thumb stud, a hole on the blade like spyderco, etc
5. Does it matter to you if the blade has black coating?
6. Do you have a preferred blade shape? Drop point, spear point, tanto, etc. (As of now I personally like spear)
Post by Killroy ᕕ( ᐛ )ᕗ on Dec 10, 2017 21:35:54 GMT -8
1. Flat head or philip are preffered for me. If I cant have that, I appreciate when the pivot screw size is the same as body screws Insert: Chris Reeves.
2. 3.5"-3.75" is the most practical size for me. 4" is the most fun 5.5" makes me feel like a well endowed man.
3. Perfect balance? dunno, but ive had a lot of luck with s30v and 154cm. VG-10 is perhaps my least favorite steel.
4. Thumb disk > Thumb stud > Wave > anything else. Kershaw makes a tremendous thumb-stud style on their Blur and ZT 0780 models. I cant stand knives that have flipper only, I think im just a traditionalist. Alot of it is the looks for me.
5. Nah. But Black coating is more tacticool.
6. CLIP POINT (MUH BOWIE!)
༼ つ ◕_◕ ༽つ Gimmie Yo Surefires ༼ つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Well you dont have to be Stonewall Jackson to know you dont wanna fight in a fucking basement.- Lt. Aldo Raine
Whatever thread has the newest post in it, is the one that sits at the top of the list, and the one that appears on the home page of the forum. I started a new thread, then posted in this one, to "bump" it to the top of the list.
And yes, Kilroy means that the flipper tab is newer than the thumb stud. I'm not certain, but I believe Rick Hinderer was the first to offer a "flipper tab" on his knives. It's hard to find history of this stuff, but the flipper is at least as old the "the mid '90s". So, 1995....?
Before that, knives could be "flipped", if you tightened the pivot screw just right. But there was a danger of the blade unfolding in your pocket if you did that.
Hey guys, can you describe in your own words what these handle descriptions mean?
1. rubber coated steel lined handle - what is steel lined? Only the edges are steel and the rest is another material?
2. glass reinforced nylon
3. Molded nylon with CNC contoured Rosewood Dymondwood inlay
Thank you for your time.
1) The handle has steel shanks in it for support, but is otherwise just a rubbery handle.
2) Kinda like fiberglass. It just uses glass fibers in the plastic to add strength while keeping it lightweight.
3) Plastic handle, but has a piece of fancy wood that's set into the handle to make it look pretty. The wood doesn't add much to the strength or reliability or anything, it's just A E S T H E T I C
Full emergency power to the engines. Ram the Blade Ship.
#1 can also refer to what is called a "hidden tang" knife.
Some folders have a smaller steel "liner" in them, with a plastic or rubber shell. Like this Lionsteel:
This is another one of those weight/strength tradeoffs. Most people like lighter weight, and some reduction in tang strength doesn't affect the real-world durability of the knife.
I'm going to guess we're talking about Buck and Benchmade, here....?
#1 can also refer to what is called a "hidden tang" knife.
Some folders have a smaller steel "liner" in them, with a plastic or rubber shell. Like this Lionsteel:
This is another one of those weight/strength tradeoffs. Most people like lighter weight, and some reduction in tang strength doesn't affect the real-world durability of the knife.
I'm going to guess we're talking about Buck and Benchmade, here....?
Sorry for the late reply. Number one is a very cheap Smith and Wesson branded pocket knife. Two is crkt. Three is Buck. :-)